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My QRV08 Build

Started by Houghtkj, April 09, 2012, 08:16:36 PM

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Houghtkj

Hi P-A     First off can I say many thanks for this amplifier! Not only does it look cool, it sounds even better.

Taken me a while to complete as I have been waiting for parts, plus I have had other commitments.
It still needs casing up but is working on the bench and sounds so good I don't want to stop listening!

I do have a couple of questions though if you don't mind:

1.   How do I calculate the amp gain if I adjust R14/E14? - I know the 100R gives me a gain of 4 - I
      would like a gain of 5 or 6.

2.   Output offset is good at about 0.15mV (both channels), but I am having great difficulty setting the
      input bias across R1 - The pot adjustment is super critical. Just the slightest touch makes a big
      difference. I have got it to about 0.5mV, but it's giving me nightmares worrying that it should be
      better.

3.   I will be feeding the QRV08 from the output of a DAC which has zero DC offset - I have chosen not to
      use C1/G1 and replaced with a 0 Ohm resistor. Is this wise?


Your feedback will be much appreciated.
Ken

Million-to-one chances crop up nine times out of ten. [Terry Pratchett]

peranders


  • Gain = R15/R14 + 1 Decrease the R14. Let R15 be.
  • Input bias is necessary only when you have a AC connected input in order for the DC servo to be able to work.
  • Can't say but. I might work for you.
/Per-Anders Sjöström, owner of this forum

Homepage with my DIY hifi stuff

Houghtkj

Hi P-A,      OK, thanks for your answers - I am OK with points 1 and 3, but I don't understand point 2.

Can you please explain the operation of the pot and setting the input bias in greater detail?

I don't intend using C1/G1, and my DAC output is via capacitors within the DAC. Does this mean I need
to correct the input bias using the pot?

Many thanks,
Ken
Million-to-one chances crop up nine times out of ten. [Terry Pratchett]

peranders

#3
Sorry, I didn't read your question carefully enough.

The amp needs an input bias which can be positive or negative and this is dependent of the current gain of the input transistors. You must always have a DC path from the input down to ground. The trimpot is for reducing the voltage caused by the input bias current and still have a rather high input impedance. The DC-servo can't handle too much offset so injecting some current at the input will make the life easier for the servo.

So, if you still have a AC coupled signal you must also have this trimpot,
/Per-Anders Sjöström, owner of this forum

Homepage with my DIY hifi stuff

Houghtkj

OK P-A now I understand, many thanks.

I have found that the adjustment is VERY sensitive - perhaps a muti-turn pot would be better suited.

Thanks again for your help

Ken.
Million-to-one chances crop up nine times out of ten. [Terry Pratchett]

peranders

The important thing is that the DC servo can adjust the output offset.
/Per-Anders Sjöström, owner of this forum

Homepage with my DIY hifi stuff

Houghtkj

Hi again P-A,

I have just bought a pair of low impedance headphones (32 Ohms) to go with my existing HD600's (300 Ohms).
Both sets of cans work fine with J3 and J6 "IN" - Is there any problem with this as I assumed J3/J6 should
be "OUT" for low impedance and "IN" for high impedance phones?

Many thanks
Ken
Million-to-one chances crop up nine times out of ten. [Terry Pratchett]

peranders

Most headphones are designed for 120 ohm source impedance and this creates a 1-2 dB bass lift. If you have 32 ohms cans you can rather easy blow them at high levels but the amp itself can handle 32 ohm loads.
/Per-Anders Sjöström, owner of this forum

Homepage with my DIY hifi stuff