Hi!Welcome to my DIY audio forum.CheersPer-Anders Sjöström
Started by Keljian, June 13, 2005, 04:54:06 PM
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Quote A few questions about the JSR03, if you don't mind>> 1. What changes need to be made (aside the obvious for>R8 and R9) for> having the regulator output at 28.5v? (I'm guessing the>25v caps would> need to be increased to 35v - I'm looking for>substitutes at the> moment) note input voltage will be about 34v dcSince the LM329 is fixed the only way to change thevoltage is the change the feedback. Strive to have theimpedance of the feedback at 500 ohms, meening that if youtakeR8 and R9 in parallel the value should be 500 ohms.Caps wihc need to be changed are: C12, C4 = 35 V. C1 maynot be changed if you can garantee max 35-37 volts. If youaren't sure use 40 or 50 volts.> 2. Regarding substitute parts, are there any you'd>reccomend as> potential upgrades for the original design? As I'm>trying to get the> absolute most out of the circuit. (aside using the>LM329) Money is not> an issue for parts.I have not investigated possible "upgrades". Remember thatthe whole purpose of the this regulator is to let theAD825 do the major work to in an artifical way create lowoutput impedance.>> 3. Are there any potential problems problems running the>BC32716TA> instead of the BC860C as the latter has been>discontinued? same goes> for the BC560 (replacement BC557B)Any >100 MHz, Hfe >300, Uce >50 will do.>> 5. I plan to be having low current draw (~500mA) will I>have any> problems using 1/8w resistors throughout the design?I recommend 0.6 W metal film 1% ("plain metal flim") asminimum but if you want to use smaller resistors make sureyou calculate the power dissipation in each.
Quote from: Sigurd RuschkowskiFor high end audio use, I would change all caps into polypropylene types,use other resistors like the Caddock MK132s or any type of Vishay's Bulk Metal Foil Type.Sigurd
Quote from: perandersHave you noticed that all electrolythic caps have different voltage ratings so if you want some other bigger models, take a closer look at needed voltages.
Quote from: perandersSigurg is an audiophile, right(?), so sure he recommends something exotic. I'd say test it and come back about the results. At the moment neither I nor Sigurd have tested the difference. One thing is for sure and that is it feels better with "good" parts.
Quote from: Sigurd RuschkowskiNow, the superregulator is not an ordinary power supply regulator. It is very complex. I have not tested if special components wil make a sound system sound better. The quality of the sound system and the quality of how well one can listen to music .However, I do like to have very very good components, and polyestercaps are not my favorites.Sigurd
Quote from: KeljianQuote from: Sigurd RuschkowskiFor high end audio use, I would change all caps into polypropylene types,use other resistors like the Caddock MK132s or any type of Vishay's Bulk Metal Foil Type.SigurdI'm guessing you're talking about these:http://www.vishay.com/docs/26022/mkp1839.pdf ?http://www.inter-technical.com/datasheets/MKP_10.PDF ? Any preference of brand? I'm guessing WIMA?I am planning to use vishay metal film resistorsI plan to use nichicon low impendance caps for the alu ones (with the exception of C12)
Quote from: Sigurd RuschkowskiYes, the MKP1839 or similar ones in polyprop are good. WIMA sells the MKP10 and MKP4 are very good, as are RIFA's blue PEH450.Any of these will do a good job! These are also cheap.A better alternative is Mundorf's tin foil polpropylene's - medium expensive.If you are lucky you might find some 100 nF polystyrene caps - these are huge, though!For electrolytic caps I would definitely go for ELNAs Cerafine series or Nichicon's Fine Gold,, or why not the top of the line Black Gate NX series!I would definitely NOT use standard metall film resistors in a high en audio PS! Dale's RN60D-F are a good compromise between cost and performance. The Caddock MK132s are very expensive, and the Vishay Bulk Metal FOils are even more expensive.Sigurd
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