JSR03 - information

[Keljian]

A few questions about the JSR03, if you don't mind
>
> 1. What changes need to be made (aside the obvious for
>R8 and R9) for
> having the regulator output at 28.5v? (I'm guessing the
>25v caps would
> need to be increased to 35v - I'm looking for
>substitutes at the
> moment) note input voltage will be about 34v dc

Since the LM329 is fixed the only way to change the
voltage is the change the feedback. Strive to have the
impedance of the feedback at 500 ohms, meening that if you
take
R8 and R9 in parallel the value should be 500 ohms.

Caps wihc need to be changed are: C12, C4 = 35 V.  C1 may
not be changed if you can garantee max 35-37 volts. If you
aren't sure use 40 or 50 volts.

> 2. Regarding substitute parts, are there any you'd
>reccomend as
> potential upgrades for the original design? As I'm
>trying to get the
> absolute most out of the circuit. (aside using the
>LM329) Money is not
> an issue for parts.

I have not investigated possible "upgrades". Remember that
the whole purpose of the this regulator is to let the
AD825 do the major work to in an artifical way create low
output impedance.

>
> 3. Are there any potential problems problems running the
>BC32716TA
> instead of the BC860C as the latter has been
>discontinued? same goes
> for the BC560 (replacement BC557B)

Any >100 MHz, Hfe >300, Uce >50 will do.


>
> 5. I plan to be having low current draw (~500mA) will I
>have any
> problems using 1/8w resistors throughout the design?

I recommend 0.6 W metal film 1% ("plain metal flim") as
minimum but if you want to use smaller resistors make sure
you calculate the power dissipation in each.

(Thought I'd share because there may be other builders who require the same information)

Thanks for your patience per-anders

[Sigurd Ruschkowski]

For high end audio use, I would change all caps into polypropylene types,
use other resistors like the Caddock MK132s or any type of Vishay's Bulk Metal Foil Type.


Sigurd

[Keljian]

For high end audio use, I would change all caps into polypropylene types,
use other resistors like the Caddock MK132s or any type of Vishay's Bulk Metal Foil Type.


Sigurd

I'm guessing you're talking about these:

http://www.vishay.com/docs/26022/mkp1839.pdf ?
http://www.inter-technical.com/datasheets/MKP_10.PDF ?

Any preference of brand? I'm guessing WIMA?

I am planning to use vishay metal film resistors

I plan to use nichicon low impendance caps for the alu ones (with the exception of C12)

[Keljian]

Struggling to find an equivalent part for the BC860(as the part is discontinued), as mentioned it has to be
>100 MHz, Hfe >300, Uce >50

The closest I've come up with is the BC557 which has all those specs however the collector current  is -100mA (whereas the 860 is -500mA)

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/BC/BC557.pdf

Would this part work?

The R8 and R9 I'm planning on using are 2100 and 681 respectively, in parallel the value is 514~ ohms, is this close enough to 500 for the circuit?

[peranders]

BC557 will be fine. The B type is sufficient but C is better.

R8 and R9 will also be fine if you want gain of 4. Remember though that R8//R9 = R7

When it comes to choosing caps, polyester is minimum in performance and polypropulene will work fine if they fit. Remember though that you mustn't add anything more at the output than the C12. If you add some 100 nF you will get oscillations

Sigurg is an audiophile, right(?), so sure he recommends something exotic. I'd say test it and come back about the results. At the moment neither I nor Sigurd have tested the difference. One thing is for sure and that is it feels better with "good" parts.

[Keljian]

Thanks again P-A

I've made an excel spreadsheet with values and mouser/digikey part numbers, if you're interested in using it. Otherwise I've changed T4 to a d44h11, and will be using all polyproplyene caps (vishay mentioned earlier) they're about 1mm longer which I'll just bend the leads a bit for. Should fit ok. I'm more worried about the alu caps as they're a bit bigger then spec, but I'll figure something out.

[peranders]

Have you noticed that all electrolythic caps have different voltage ratings so if you want some other bigger models, take a closer look at needed voltages.

[Keljian]

Have you noticed that all electrolythic caps have different voltage ratings so if you want some other bigger models, take a closer look at needed voltages.

yeah but I'll be running 33v or so from the rectifier, I'll be using what you suggested, 50v for c1, 35v for c4 and c12, 25v for c3,c6 and c8, hoping that I have enough board space

.

[Sigurd Ruschkowski]

Well, yes, I would say that I am kind of DIY audiophile. I do focus much on the quality of components. It always pays off!

Now, the superregulator is not an ordinary power supply regulator. It is very complex. I have not tested if special components wil make a sound system sound better. The quality of the sound system and the quality of how well one can listen to music .
However, I do like to have very very good components, and polyestercaps are not my favorites.


Sigurd

Sigurg is an audiophile, right(?), so sure he recommends something exotic. I'd say test it and come back about the results. At the moment neither I nor Sigurd have tested the difference. One thing is for sure and that is it feels better with "good" parts.

:)

[Keljian]

Now, the superregulator is not an ordinary power supply regulator. It is very complex. I have not tested if special components wil make a sound system sound better. The quality of the sound system and the quality of how well one can listen to music .
However, I do like to have very very good components, and polyestercaps are not my favorites.


Sigurd

Well it won't make it sound any worse I'm sure, so it can't hurt and it's only another $10USD or so for it, so I figure why not, I'm going all out on this project.

[Sigurd Ruschkowski]

Yes, the MKP1839 or similar ones in polyprop are good. WIMA sells the MKP10 and MKP4 are very good, as are RIFA's blue PEH450.
Any of these will do a good job! These are also cheap.

A better alternative is Mundorf's tin foil polpropylene's - medium expensive.

If you are lucky you might find some 100 nF polystyrene caps - these are huge, though!

For electrolytic caps I would definitely go for ELNAs Cerafine series or Nichicon's Fine Gold,, or why not the top of the line Black Gate NX series!

I would definitely NOT use standard metall film resistors in a high en audio PS! Dale's RN60D-F are a good compromise between cost and performance. The Caddock MK132s are very expensive, and the Vishay Bulk Metal FOils are even more expensive.



Sigurd

For high end audio use, I would change all caps into polypropylene types,
use other resistors like the Caddock MK132s or any type of Vishay's Bulk Metal Foil Type.


Sigurd

I'm guessing you're talking about these:

http://www.vishay.com/docs/26022/mkp1839.pdf ?
http://www.inter-technical.com/datasheets/MKP_10.PDF ?

Any preference of brand? I'm guessing WIMA?

I am planning to use vishay metal film resistors

I plan to use nichicon low impendance caps for the alu ones (with the exception of C12)

[Keljian]

Ok, I won't use black gates, they're just simply not worth it, nichicon are great caps (in my experience) and I'll be using elna SILMIC IIs in the device it's powering.

the nichicons I'm intending on using for the power regulator will be  
C1: UHE1H101MPD ( http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/seihin/pdfs/e-he.pdf )

C3,C6,C7: UPW1E101MEH ( http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/seihin/pdfs/e-pw.pdf )

C4, C12: UVZ1V101MED ( http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/seihin/pdfs/e-vz.pdf )


I'd prefer to use the vishay polyprop caps because they're axial leaded and would be easier to fit to the board rather than having say 7 or so huge caps hanging off the board, more a convenience thing and I suppose it'd be a last .5 % thing to have a different brand, this is already audiophile gear.

I was planning to use Vishay/dale CCFF55 resistors (I can't find the values I want in any others aside the RD55 which are too small in wattage)

Yes, the MKP1839 or similar ones in polyprop are good. WIMA sells the MKP10 and MKP4 are very good, as are RIFA's blue PEH450.
Any of these will do a good job! These are also cheap.

A better alternative is Mundorf's tin foil polpropylene's - medium expensive.

If you are lucky you might find some 100 nF polystyrene caps - these are huge, though!

For electrolytic caps I would definitely go for ELNAs Cerafine series or Nichicon's Fine Gold,, or why not the top of the line Black Gate NX series!

I would definitely NOT use standard metall film resistors in a high en audio PS! Dale's RN60D-F are a good compromise between cost and performance. The Caddock MK132s are very expensive, and the Vishay Bulk Metal FOils are even more expensive.



Sigurd

[Sigurd Ruschkowski]

Keljian,
would be very interesting to see how you assembled the regulators:
Could you post some photos of your superregulators when they are finished?



Sigurd

[Keljian]

I'm only making one of the regulators, don't need dual rails.

in other news I've substituted for RN60D resistors, however the values aren't spot on, *shrugs* they should be ok (they're within 5% of the values specced out for)

As for pictures, sure, once it's done.

I'd like to get the nichicon muse caps but they're just too difficult to obtain here in Australia. I'm already listening to a dtpakiller amp with the ones mentioned above and they should be fine. Though I might go panasonic FM now that it's been mentioned and I am making a digikey order..

Just so you know P-A (and all else who cares) it's for a maxxed out M3 ( http://www.amb.org/audio/mmm/  ) which I'm planning on building

I built a simple snubber power supply built around an LM317 but decided that it was the major weakness in the amp, plus the caps are some unknown brand (saxxon?) low esr, used uf4004 diodes for the rectifier and such - it'd work but I decided the amp deserved better.

will give you more info soon...

[Sigurd Ruschkowski]

If you have a hard time (like me) to find high end audio related components there are two companies that have been very good to buy from:

Borbely Audio in Germany
http://www.borbelyaudio.com/audiophile_components.asp

and

Michael Percy Audio in the US
http://www.percyaudio.com/


Sigurd